Re: CommutaCar Questions

[Gregory Roby <fsgpr@yahoo.com>]

     I have a 1977 (1976.5) Citicar with a Dana axle.  I was
wondering if anyone knows specifically what vehicles the brake
drums came off of or what they match up with.  I would like to
buy some new brake drums, if they exist at reasonable prices.  I
also want to get 1 pair of brake shoes, so I can cycle them out
when I get my shoes relined.  I found one place that might be
able to match something up, but I have not had time (and its
been raining when I have had time) to take off the drums and
measure them.

The car has been sitting for over a year, I just got it running
and inspected a couple of weeks ago.  I added a Wilde-Evolutions
500 amp controller, though I doubt it sees the full current
since my pot box physically cannot hit its max.  I also added a
portable CD-Player.  I got sick of playing around with the 48
volt Sebring Automatic charger (it worked intermittently, I
think something in the interlock relay is not correct) and
replaced it with 3 Diehard chargers (I plan on replacing them
next year with a "real" charger).  So far, they seem to work
well, I estimate that my full charge time is about 16 hours or
so though.

After the speedometer stopped spinning in circles, it seemed to
work fine.  My top speed seems to agree with the ratings (about
38 on flat ground).  I need to upgrade to voltage to go up hills
a bit faster, though.

The old charger is for sale for $100 plus shipping (from Albany,
NY area), it is in "as-is" condition.

Also, does anyone know if there is an easy way to tighten-up the
steering, so the direction of the car does not change everytime
you go over a pump/pot hole?  Maybe I should lower the tire
pressure to the recommended...

I am going to update my web-page with info on what I did, if
anyone is interested, I have to run now.






Quoted Message follows:



         The main limitation is the brakes.  They are at best
marginal and need good maintenance.  Braking in slippery
conditions can be tricky.  

                The suspension design is primitive -- solid
axles front and rear with leaf springs.  There is quite a bit of
bump steer, and the stiff springs make for a rough ride on poor
to fair road surfaces.  If your roads are well             
maintained, this isn't too much of a problem.

                C-cars thrive on tinkering.  They're very simple
and straightforward to repair, as long as you respect the
enormous amount of energy stored in 
                the batteries.

                Parts are not available at Auto Zone, but the
C-car was built mostly
                with 
                off-the-shelf parts.  Almost every part on the
car has an equivalent
                from 
                another auto, trailer, golf car, boat, or
industrial vehicle.  If you 
                can't match it up from one of these sources,
there are a couple of mail

                order firms which maintain a parts stock.  You
can even get a service 
                manual.



=====
Gregory Roby 
           http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/factory/9011
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