Re: Lead foot driver causes Curtis 1221C to complain

[Rich Rudman <rmanzan@tscnet.com>]

Roger Daisley wrote:
> 
> I recently acquired a VoltsRabbit running a Curtis 1221C, Prestolite motor
> and 128-volts of flooded batteries.
> 
> On warm Southern California days, after about 5-6 miles, the controller will
> abruptly cut back on current flow and start to squeal at certain throttle
> positions.  I assume its overheating.  The controller and aluminum plate
> it's mounted on (Electro Automotive design) is quite hot to the touch.  I
> don't drive it very conservatively, as all my trips are short range.  Amp
> pulls in the 200-300 range are common.  (Yes, I know: The cheapest is to get
> off the throttle, but that's not what I want to do. <smile>)
> 
> Ideas that cross my mind are:
> 
> Find a way for more air flow across the assy, but that seems problematic as
> to "fixing" the problem.
> 
> Add cooling area or increased heat sink.
> 
> Some method of extracting the heat from the controller.
> 
> Slow down. REJECTED <smile>
> 
> With the combined expertise on this board, surely someone has encountered
> the problem and solved it.
> 
> HELP ....
> 
> Roger Daisley
> Laguna Hills, CA
> 
> "Where Revolutionary New Ideas Are Not Always New or Revolutionary"
Get a DCP Raptor 1200, and some REAL batteries that can dish out 1000
amps.
Live with a 10 mile range and tire Smoke on Demand.
Of course it will need a PFC20 Charger.....
	You need MAX airflow across the Curtii's heat sink, still it's designed
like a nice aluminum Thermos Bottle.

At 100 Deg F you might even find some uses for Liquid cooled controllers
from Both DCP and EVCL. I have never had My Raptor cut back termally. My
T-REX does it if I look at it too hard.
You have some options...
-- 
Rich Rudman
Manzanita Micro
www.manzanitamicro.com
1-360-297-7383,Cell 1-360-620-6266