Re: Lead foot driver causes Curtis 1221C to complain

["Lawrence Rhodes" <bassoon@jps.net>]

I have a thin sheet of aluminium where the back of the radiator used to be.
The controller is mounted to this and on the front is a very big heat sink.
I have been toying with using a windshield washer to inject water on to the
heat sink.  With all the air comming in the front it should get good
cooling.  The loose water is the only problem.  Water and electricity don't
mix.  The only problem would be to keep the water from comming over the top
lip of the aluminium sheet and getting on the controller.  Lawrence
Rhodes......
----- Original Message -----
From: "Roger Daisley" <roger@daisley.com>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Wednesday, July 31, 2002 11:04 AM
Subject: Lead foot driver causes Curtis 1221C to complain


> I recently acquired a VoltsRabbit running a Curtis 1221C, Prestolite motor
> and 128-volts of flooded batteries.
>
> On warm Southern California days, after about 5-6 miles, the controller
will
> abruptly cut back on current flow and start to squeal at certain throttle
> positions.  I assume its overheating.  The controller and aluminum plate
> it's mounted on (Electro Automotive design) is quite hot to the touch.  I
> don't drive it very conservatively, as all my trips are short range.  Amp
> pulls in the 200-300 range are common.  (Yes, I know: The cheapest is to
get
> off the throttle, but that's not what I want to do. <smile>)
>
> Ideas that cross my mind are:
>
> Find a way for more air flow across the assy, but that seems problematic
as
> to "fixing" the problem.
>
> Add cooling area or increased heat sink.
>
> Some method of extracting the heat from the controller.
>
> Slow down. REJECTED <smile>
>
> With the combined expertise on this board, surely someone has encountered
> the problem and solved it.
>
> HELP ....
>
> Roger Daisley
> Laguna Hills, CA
>
> "Where Revolutionary New Ideas Are Not Always New or Revolutionary"
>
>