Re: Link10 (E-meter) keeps resetting--why?

["Christopher Zach" <czach@computer.org>]

Even if you use a seperate battery, you're still going to want a DC-DC
converter to isolate that pack negative from the little 12 volt battery.

Get a little one. That's all you need.

Chris

----- Original Message -----
From: "1sclunn" <1sclunn@msn.com>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Friday, August 30, 2002 7:32 PM
Subject: Re: Link10 (E-meter) keeps resetting--why?


> >From what I am reading you have two problems . The meter turning off and
on
> is probable from somthing pulling down the 12v supply like brake lights
> power brakes ect. Easy to check just hook up the meter power wires to
> another 12v battery with nothing conected to it (except e-meter) . its neg
> will have to be conected to the shunt - (I beleive )  You could leave the
> 12v meter battery in the car and charge  in from a little wind mill hood
> ordenment (I am really thinking of doing this myself when I get the time,)
> or use a Isolated dc/dc .
> what is burning your meter out or will is the leakage(electric) from
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Mark" <mark@dodrill.net>
> To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
> Sent: Friday, August 30, 2002 8:51 AM
> Subject: Re: Link10 (E-meter) keeps resetting--why?
>
>
> > This question of how the 12v wiring works keeps coming up, so I'll go
into
> > more detail about how the car is wired.  I must confess that I don't
have
> > a full understanding of why it is setup the way it is, so please don't
ask
> > "Why did you do it that way?  That's stupid!"
> >
> > My 120v DC pack is connected in the back to the Link10 amp meter, via a
> > 500 amp shunt.  There is a knife switch right next to the emergency
brake
> > inside the car, which breaks the pack circut (front to back).  In the
> front,
> > one side of the 120v DC connects to the contactor, and the other
connects
> > to the Curtis 1231 controller.  The controller connects to the motor,
and
> > the motor connects back to the contactor to complete the circut.  That's
> > the basics.
> >
> > Now, there is an additional smaller (12 gauge or 10 gauge) wire that
runs
> > from the contactor to the DC/DC converter 120v input (positive as I
> recall).
> >  There is also a wire (12 or 10 gauge again) that appears to go from the
> > main negative side of the controller to the DC/DC converter
> negative--there's
> > lots of shrink tubing on the controller connection, so it's hard to tell
> > for sure (but it makes sense).  This has the net effect that the DC/DC
> converter
> > is on whenever the 120v pack circut is complete (that is, when the knife
> > switch is engaged (the normal condition).
> >
> > Ok, stay with me.  The 12v output of the DC/DC converter goes to a strip
> > connector (I think that's what it's called), and then is connected to
both
> > the 12v accessory battery and the 12v system.  The way it is wired, the
> > 12v system is powered by either the DC/DC converter, the 12v battery or
> > both, depending on the draw.  The DC/DC converter pumps out 13.8 v
> whenever
> > it is on, and the battery sits at the same voltage as what comes out of
> > the DC/DC converter and drops to a lower (12.8 or so) level when the
DC/DC
> > converter is off.  This is how I know that the DC/DC converter feeds the
> > battery when on.
> >
> > As far as I can tell, the Link10 is connected up to the main 12v system,
> > just like anything else--though I'm not sure if it has an isolator as
Roy
> > talked about.
> >
> > When I turn on the key, the power brake pump starts up for a bit, but
that
> > only uses about 0.5 amps on the Link10 (at 120v), which is like 5 amps
(at
> > 12v).  There are no other loads that start at that time, unless you had
> > the brakes/lights/radio on.  No fans or pumps or whatever.  So, there
> isn't
> > a large startup inrush.
> >
> > Given all this--the Link10 won't start flashing (low voltage condition)
> > unless the voltage is like 9v or less.  Wouldn't the car clock or radio
> > or blinkers start having trouble at that low of a voltage too?  Since I
> > don't see any effect on the other systems, it points to the problem
being
> > related specifically to the Link10 or what's hooked up to it.
> >
> > I'm a computer programmer, so I'm the most suspicious about the things I
> > know I've changed, rather than something else in the environment.
> >
> > Thanks for any additional thoughts you have.
> >
> > Mark
> >
> > >-- Original Message --
> > >Date: Fri, 30 Aug 2002 09:07:03 -0700
> > >From: Lee Hart <leeahart@earthlink.net>
> > >Reply-To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
> > >To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
> > >Subject: Re: Link10 (E-meter) keeps resetting--why?
> > >
> > >
> > >Mark wrote:
> > >
> > >> I ordered a brand new Link10 from EVParts... The problem I'm having
> > >> is that the Link10 keeps resetting itself, clearing the amp/hours
> > >> used, and flashing, and seemingly random times.
> > >
> > >Since the Link 10 is resetting and flashing, it is somehow losing its
> > >12v power. The Sevcon and 7ah accessory battery are pretty small. I
> > >would expect them to momentarily sag below 10 volts when the headlights
> > >are turned on or a fan motor is started because they can't supply the
> > >50-100 amp inrush current.
> > >
> > >What are you using for the DC/DC converter between the Link 10 and the
> > >12v accessory battery? Maybe it is missing (dangerous!) or not adequate
> > >for the job.
> > >
> > >The Cruising Equipment E-meters had an "EV filter" option. This was a
> > >1000uf filter capacitor across the power input, so it would survive
> > >momentary voltage sags. Pehaps Xantex in their infinite wisdom has
> > >decided to eliminate it to save money.
> > >--
> > >Lee A. Hart                Ring the bells that still can ring
> > >814 8th Ave. N.            Forget your perfect offering
> > >Sartell, MN 56377 USA      There is a crack in everything
> > >leeahart_at_earthlink.net  That's how the light gets in - Leonard Cohen
> > >
> >
> > Mark
> > 1985 Pulsar EV
> > * Love that EV grin! *
> >
> >
>
>
>