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Greenbuilding Archive for July 2002
170 messages, last added Tue Nov 26 17:27:06 2002

[Date Index][Thread Index]

Re: [GBlist] Ant Repellent-catfoodbowls



"Martin&Caruso" <itchpeople@islc.net> wrote:

>We use Amdro, because it is less toxic than lots of the other things out
>there...it is supposedly a biological control, it causes sterility which
>means the hive dies in about 2 weeks.  I am not crazy about amdro and have
>tried other methods....

While Amdro is a fairly effective bait, it does get into the 
waterways and has negative effects on aquatic life.

>Some of the other nontoxic methods I have heard about-pour boiling water on
>the mound on a cool morning when all the ants have moved to the top of the
>hive to get the warmth from the sun.  I don't know how effective this is.


It's minimally effective for us.  You get the perverse pleasure of 
watching them die, but since fire ant colonies can be 6 feet deep 
there's not much chance of getting the whole mound with a couple of 
pots of boiling water.

The best method we've found is to use a combination of orange oil 
cleaner (citri-solv or similar), liquid humus or compost tea, and 
agriculural molasses, with water.  Soak the mound completely.  Not 
only will you kill off the ants, but you'll improve the soil quality. 
(it's postulated that fire ants prefer to nest in poor soils).

jfrost wrote:
>For just repelling ants away from cat food bowls.... Like
>if you want to place it outside or something,
>get a large plate and cover the bottom with
>   Diatomaceous Earth, then place the food bowl on the plate.
>
>D.E. only works when its dry so you should sun-dry it after
>it gets wet or just replace with dry DE from the bag.
>  I forgot it needs to be FOOD GRADE D.E. !!!!!

Placing the bowl within a larger bowl of water also works.  And 
water's cheaper.

-- 
Bill Christensen
billc@greenbuilder.com

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