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Stoves Archive for January 2002
240 messages, last added Tue Nov 26 17:31:22 2002

[Date Index][Thread Index]

Getting on (to) the pot



Dear Paul

I agree with you that looking at the pot and heat transfer is a very much
better way to lick up efficiency once we have solved the problems of
secondary combustion.  I will give you some figures on the difference in
temperature between a (typical in Swaziland) smokey wood fire burning inside
a coal stove and one in a good stove.

Ther as an effort amde by a pot casting company in the RSA (Republic of
S.Africa) which was a pot with a lip about 1/2 the way up, perhaps 3/4 made
so that it fit tight into a stove top hole when the plate was removed.  The
pot sits down in the hole with only the lid and handle poking out.  It is
far better at absorbing heat than a similar pot siting on top of the plate,
or even over an open hole.  I don't understand why these things take so long
to be made available . Surely this was known 100 years ago or more?

Anyway, we need to promote that works better.  There isn't much to go on in
the pot department.

A Dutch friend up the road and I were talking pots and stoves on Saturday
and he said he has a pot that works very well for small amounts of water.
It has a lower lip on the bottom extending downwards to trap heat under the
resulting small cavity.

Ken in the UK is using something similar in layout to pick up extra heat on
his Stirling engine 'transferators'.

Suppose the bottom of a kettle were heavily dimpled?  Tha would create a
larger surface area at a minimum cost from the existing material.

Something that would be really helpful would be a stainless steel that
transfers heat twice as fast as steel instead of half.  How about a clamp-on
ring that picks up heat from the air passing by the pot?

I think in many cases picking up more heat from an overly-large fire would
burn the food.  We have to find ways to make smaller fires first, then get
on (to) the pot.

Regards
Crispin


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