Re: strawbale-digest V2 #1317

["Gemini" <gemini11@zoomnet.net>]

Hi all,
I'm new to the list but I've been researching strawbale construction for
about a year now as my fiance and I are hoping to build our home in such an
environmentally responsible way. I have a question: Has anyone tried or
heard of anyone who has tried building a strawbale home w/o using stucco as
the exterior cover? I'm not sure how adept either of us would be at
completing this task nor are we sure that the stucco would blend very well
in our wooded Southern Ohio environment.
Thanks,
Michelle
----- Original Message -----
From: strawbale-digest <owner-strawbale-digest@crest.org>
To: <strawbale-digest@crest.org>
Sent: Tuesday, January 04, 2000 2:00 AM
Subject: strawbale-digest V2 #1317


>
> strawbale-digest       Tuesday, January 4 2000       Volume 02 : Number
1317
>
>
>
> Messages in this digest:
>  Power tool safety, was Lancelot wheels
>  Intro Rate Card Magic
>  lancelot?
>  Plaster in Winter
>  Re: Plaster in Winter
>  Insetting bales into existing stud walls
>  Interior wall Permiability
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Date: Mon, 03 Jan 2000 13:14:14 GMT
> From: "Grace Benjamin" <grey_sea@hotmail.com>
> Subject: Power tool safety, was Lancelot wheels
>
> Hello all-
>
> I'm pitifully inexperienced with power tools, but have used various
> house-garden items before: small chainsaw, lawnmower, chipper, etc.  One
> piece of advice I've been given repeatedly was to NEVER wear gloves.  The
> reasoning I was given was that if the glove gets caught in the tool, it
> would also pull your hand in(doing major damage).  Whereas, not wearing
> gloves, you could more easily pull away a nicked finger(much less damage).
>
> I've always just followed the advice- I was wondering if there is any
truth
> to that in the experiences of others reading?  Have you found it better or
> worse to wear gloves with power tools?
>
> TIA! And Happy New Year...The next millenium is less than one year
away!!!!
> :)
> Grace
> ______________________________________________________
> Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Mon, 3 Jan 2000 09:39:33 -0700
> From: Matt Federoff <mfederoff@vail.k12.az.us>
> Subject: Intro Rate Card Magic
>
> > Your $10K maxxed out on cash advances Mastercard at 22% is
> >snapped up by Visa for 5.9%, pronto. Spend that $10k on roof trusses.
Need
> >another 10K? Doesn't everyone get 3-4 Introd. Rate offers a month? I do.
Get
> >another card. And  another. When the Intro. Rate is about to expire
there's a
> >LONG list  of other companies offerring MC or Visa who desparately want
to
> >give you ANOTHER Intro. Rate if you will transfer your outstanding
balance to
> >them. Do it. Have  that
>
> This is exactly what we're doing to finance our house. We have a loan, but
> we can't use it to pay deposits, and we only get it in five draws, after a
> certain amount of work has been done. In other words, we pay for something
> out of pocket,  then the bank "reimburses" us for it. So we use a low
intro
> rate card (3.9%) to pay for everything up front. Very useful.
>
> Peace,
> Matt
>
> Matt Federoff
> Apple Distinguished Educator
> Computer Specialist
> Vail School District
> Vail, Arizona
> 520/762-2174
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Mon, 3 Jan 2000 09:48:46 -0700
> From: Matt Federoff <mfederoff@vail.k12.az.us>
> Subject: lancelot?
>
> Hi All!
>    With all this talk of Lancelot hazards, I have new respect for my
little
> 14" Remington Chainsaw. It cost me 39.99 at Home Despotism, it's light,
> surprisingly tough, and it's done everything from chopping bales to
cutting
> electrical channels (it also worked to cut down some small trees on my
> site, something you can't do easily with a grinding wheel). What is nice
> about the chainsaw is when you are cutting wiring channels and electrical
> boxes. The narrow blade lets you cut a deep, precise channel exactly where
> you want it. It is very controlable as well, and you can reach up above
> your head much more easily to cut (though you better get ready to suck
> straw when you do!).
>
> The blade is also nice and far away from your hands. And at this price, if
> it dies at the end of the project, who cares?
>
> Peace,
> Matt
>
> Matt Federoff
> Apple Distinguished Educator
> Computer Specialist
> Vail School District
> Vail, Arizona
> 520/762-2174
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Mon, 3 Jan 2000 09:03:33 -0800
> From: "Claire Sierra" <dalala@mars.ark.com>
> Subject: Plaster in Winter
>
> Hi Strawbalers,
>
> We finally have our masonry heater completed and are now ready to plaster
> our bales here in British Columbia. Because of work commitments we will
only
> have time to do the outside.  We are leery of starting because we have had
> three weeks of damp foggy weather and the outside of the bales are
starting
> to get that black moldy look on the ends. We are planning to use a stucco
> rather than a lime plaster because of our damp climate.
>
> My first question is, will it be safe to plaster now? We plan to shave off
> that moldy stuff but will the cement stucco inhibit further drying of the
> bales (already in place a year!)
>
> My second question is although our weather is fairly moderate the
> thermometer does drop below freezing on occasion. How does this affect the
> stucco?
>
> .......Claire
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Mon, 3 Jan 2000 13:27:52 -0500 (EST)
> From: rob_tom@freenet.carleton.ca (Robert W. Tom)
> Subject: Re: Plaster in Winter
>
> Claire;
>
> I've never plastered in winter because I wouldn't attempt it in
> winter. Working against the weather is too energy-intensive for my
> liking.
>
> But I can tell you with confidence that cementitious mixes which
> are allowed to freeze before curing has taken place will be weak
> and in many (most ? all ?) instances, will suffer permanent damage
> (crumbling,spalling).
>
> With concrete and cement mortar (ie stucco) mixes, calcium chloride
> (maximum of 2% by dry mass of cement) is often used during cold
> weather to accelerate setting. Heated enclosures are still
> necessary during the curing period though if below-freezing temps
> are anticipated.
>
> The use of calcium chloride for me, would be a choice of last resort.
> It's use increases the potential for corrosion of galvanised and
> aluminum components (ie lath and flashings)  and the potential for a
> weakened end product.
>
> If the straw is wet, (ie so wet that it is mouldy) then I would
> hazard to say that it's too wet to plaster over.
>
> If you're near Habib Gonzales in Nelson (who I have cc'd), I'd
> suggest it'd be well worth the cost of having him check the
> moisture content of your straw for you if there is any doubt.
>
> I'd also suggest that the inclusion of some permanent moisture
> sensors would be worthwhile. (see Habib's article in TLS or CMHC for
> instructions on how to make them yourself or you can order some
> from Rob Jolly in Edson, AB.
>
> If worst comes to worst, the straw will still be great for compost
> in the garden and you've already gotten a year of shelter out of them.
>
>
>
> dalala@mars.ark.com wrote:
> >My first question is, will it be safe to plaster now? We plan to shave
off
> >that moldy stuff but will the cement stucco inhibit further drying of the
> >bales (already in place a year!)
> >
> >My second question is although our weather is fairly moderate the
> >thermometer does drop below freezing on occasion. How does this affect
the
> >stucco?
>
> - ---------- * ----------
> Rob_Tom @ ncf.ca
> Kanata, Ontario, Canada
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Mon, 3 Jan 2000 17:35:49 -0700
> From: FROG@usgs.gov (FROG)
> Subject: Insetting bales into existing stud walls
>
>
>      Folks,
>      I just bought a small house and at the end of this month I am going
to
>      gut the entire thing for a little makeover.  Part of that makeover
>      will be to remove the interior plaster from the exterior walls and
>      install strawbales.  While I am a great fan of experimentation, I
>      thought it would be wise to tap the knowledge of the group before I
>      started in on the project in the hope that I could save a bit of
time.
>       The biggest problem I can foresee is how to let in the studs into
the
>      bales.  I see only a few options:
>
>      1.  Make slots in the sides of the bales for the studs with the evil
>      lancelot.
>
>      2.  Kick the bales into the studs in a way that causes a reciprical
>      book of straw on the other side of the stud to protrude into the
>      interior of the building where it can be chainsawed off.
>
>      3.  Some other clever way that you folks can think of.....
>
>      Help me out please with your experiences.
>
>      Many thanks
>
>      sam
>
>      P.S.  Has anyone tried those fiberwheels that go on grinders as an
>      alternative to the lancelot?
>
> Sam Droege  FROG@USGS.GOV
> w 301-497-5840 h 410-798-5720 fax 301-497-5784
> USGS Patuxent Wildlife Research Center
>  12100 Beech Forest, Laurel, Md 20708-4038
> Http://www.mp1-pwrc.usgs.gov
>
>
>      He was in logic a great critic,
> Profoundly skill'd in analytic;
> He could distinguish, and divide
> A hair 'twixt south, and south-west side:
> On either which he would dispute,
> Confute, change hands, and still confute,
> He'd undertake to prove, by force
> Of argument, a man's no horse;
> He'd prove a buzzard is no fowl,
> And that a lord may be an owl,
> A calf an alderman, a goose a justice,
> And rooks Committee-men and Trustees.
> He'd run in debt by disputation,
> And pay with ratiocination.
> All this by syllogism, true
> In mood and figure, he would do.;
>     -Exerpted From Hudibras, Samuel Butler
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Mon, 03 Jan 2000 19:56:31 PST
> From: "Glen Elliott" <elliott_glen@hotmail.com>
> Subject: Interior wall Permiability
>
> Hello all,
> As I understand the latest SB building wisdom, the air perm rate of the
> interior wall covering should be in the neighborhood of 10 times less than
> the exterior walls, at least in a heating environment (I'm moving to
central
> Wisconsin where I plan to build).  My question to the group is  this:  If
I
> wish to use a lime or gypsum based plaster on the interior walls, is there
> an additive of some sort that can reduce the coverings air permeability?
I
> would prefer not using an impermiable paint if at all possible (planning
on
> using natural colored washes) with the possible exception of in the
bathroom
> and I really don't want to use concrete on the interior either (too hard
and
> cold for my liking).  At this point I'm planning on using lime plaster on
> the exterior walls, if that info helps any.  Any thoughts?  Am I even
> correct about the perm rate differential?
>
> Thanks
>
> Glen Elliott
> Seattle (soon to be central Wisconsin)
> ______________________________________________________
> Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
>
> ------------------------------
>
> End of strawbale-digest V2 #1317
> ********************************
>
>