SB: Re: Pinning

["Bill Hunt" <billhunt@redrock.net>]

----- Original Message -----
>From: "Kester Wilkinson" <kester.wilkinson@linkgroup.co.uk> snip
> I'm planning structural door and window frame with external pinning to
hold
> the bales in place - on this basis is it ok to omit the rebar for the
bottom
> course ?

Hi Kester-  I asked a similar question last year (about attaching the first
course of bales to a second story floor).  The consensus was to really
attach the first course well to what's below it (floor, or foundation). We
are in siesmic zone 3, but since there really is some siesmic potential
everywhere, as well as wind loads, I'd suggest the same for you.  Rebar is a
pretty simple way to reinforce the first course connection to the
foundation.  "Porcupining" the bottom plates with 20d nails was recommended
as an alternative to rebar (assuming you have wood plates under the bales,
and that they are well attached to the foundation).  We used 16d nails every
6" in some areas, along with 1" bamboo every 2 feet, attached to the plates
(or beam, etc) below with a steel strap, or a drilled hole.  In a higher
siesmic zone, you'd want to use larger plates, and more anchor bolts into
the foundation.

>also - I have a couple of gable ends where I have a roof overhang of 75cms.
> I've been a bit concerned that this will leave the lime render exposed at
a
> height which I might find difficult to monitor and repair, so I have
planned
> larch cladding to cover the triangle at the gable end.  How should I treat
> the bales behind the cladding ?
> leave them alone ? spray on a fire retardant ? or a single scratch coat of
> clay plaster ? or more.

I'd do a thick scratch coat of  plaster, if not two coats. Actually, I don't
think the upper triangle is that exposed to weather.  Its really the bottom
few courses of the wall, under the gable ends.  These are the furthest from
the overhang.  Bales under any windows in this area will be the most
vulnerable.

I think this is an important point about gables on strawbale structures.
Needless to say, exterior windowsills in the gable ends are
very critical areas for moisture-proof detailing.  An intermediate roof line
splitting the gable wall would protect the lower part of the gable wall
better.   This would connect the low rooflines on the sides of the gable,
connecting the fascias and soffits.  I'm not sure of the exact term for this
type of intermediate roof line (eyebrow?). Somewhat like a Dutch hip roof.
A wider overhang such as a porch,
entry,  mudroom, or sunspace/greenhouse would be even better.

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Rather formidable tag, there ;-).  You know, I went to Gloucester High
School, in Gloucester, Massachusetts (USA).  Perhaps you've seen the movie
"A Perfect Storm", set there.
Best of luck-
Bill








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