SB: Re: Interior temp for Plastering

["John Dittli" <dittli@earthlink.net>]

> Thank you Tom. This makes sense to me as I thought the idea was to keep
> cement damp as long as practical during the initial curing. I wonder
though,
> if driving moisture inward with heat, would be as critical when applying
> finish coats of lime plaster, after the cement plaster has set. I was
> thinking heat might be nice to hurry along the slow setting lime?
>
> John
>

>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Robert W. Tom" <archilogic@yahoo.ca>
> To: "John Dittli" <dittli@earthlink.net>; "Athena and Bill Steen"
> <absteen@dakotacom.net>; <strawbale@crest.org>
> Sent: Monday, November 26, 2001 6:07 PM
> Subject: SB: Interior temp for Plastering (was Re: Forwarded letter about
> straw bale buildings that makeher sick)
>
>
> >
> > For interior cement plaster, I think that it's probably best to keep the
> interior
> > as cool as possible without letting it freeze.
> >
> > Why ?
> >
> > If the interior is kept hot, I bet that the heat would try and find its
> way to
> > the cooler outdoors via the shortest route it can find ... and one of
> those
> > routes would likely be through the straw.  The downside is that the heat
> could
> > likely be carrying moisture with it and that moisture would likely
> condense within
> > the bale wall .
> >
> > Not only would that be potentially bad for the straw, it'd also be bad
for
> the plaster
> > because that moisture would no longer be available to the cement to
enable
> it to
> > fully hydrate.
> >
> > On the other hand, with cooler temps, it would seems that more of the
> moisture
> > would tend  to stay in the plaster making itself available to the
> hydrating cement.
> > Longer moist curing results in better concrete and cement plaster.
> >
> > --- * ---
> > Rob Tom
> > Kanata, Ontario, Canada
> > <ChaffArchiLogic@yahoo.ca>
> > (winnow the "chaff"before responding)
> >
> > Please visit http://www.theHungerSite.com daily
> >
> >
> >
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>
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