|
Rob Tom wrote:
>It sounds very much like you don't intend to embed the
external pins within
>the plaster skins. (ie if the pins on the exterior
were embedded, additional furring
>would be required to create the
ventilation airspace behind the clapboards.)
>
Not
having the pins embedded is like placing rebar outside of >the concrete
which
it is supposed to be reinforcing.
>
Furthermore, unless the pins were something like 2x2s
(which >tend to go
snakey unless well restrained at intervals not
exceeding 24" or >so ...twine
through the bales isn't going to do it
) there is going to be a lot >of lumber
consumed just for not much
more than just nailers, probably >enough
lumber to construct
a structural double stud wall.
Perhaps my understanding of the procedure in securing a
rainscreen to a bale-wrap wall (wrapped around an interior post and beam frame)
is flawed. It was my understanding that 2x(2?3?) furring strips were
required both as nailers and to gain the appropriate venting,
no?
These strips would be secured to the frame at the floor,
8' higher at a second bale track in plane with and affixed to the second floor,
and 4-12' higher again at the soffit (gable roof); they would be tied to similar
strips inside every two courses. I presume they would be 4'-8' O.C.
Given that the bale walls are only holding themselves up, and will be receiving
full plaster coats on both sides (the interior furring will be embedded, perhaps
using saplings instead of 2x if strong enough, or notching the bales if
necessary), this seems to me that it should be secure enough; am I wrong in this
regard? It also seems that this amount of wood added to the frame is still
a far cry from a double stud wall, not having crunched the
numbers...
It seems plausible that these strips could somehow be
utilized in securing the bales to the frame, and get as much out of their use as
possible. I understand the problem associated in not embedding the
exterior furring strips with the bales in plaster, resulting in a lack of
structural support; could one tack plywood strips behind the furring, extending
a few inches on either side, to receive the plaster flush to the furring?
This would match the interior technique of tacking drywall strips behind one's
posts. I would think this would be enough support...am I underestimating
the propensity of a bale wall to let loose from its oppresive form?
I am also curious to hear how one would attach a tilt-up
rainscreen to a bale-wrap wall, which was mentioned somewhere back in the
archives. Might one be able to secure it to the floor, second track, and
soffit alone? Perhaps run second floor joists long through the bales as
points of attachment, using lookouts on the parallel sides? It sounds like
a good idea, what with the ease of bale access and renovation...
BTW Bill, thanks for the good advice. It was I who
was being too vague in asking for information; I will take your words under
consideration.
Warm regards to you all.
Jacob
| 
