Re: SB: floors, turpentine- do as I say, not as I did

["GuyW" <guyiii@cox.net>]

Yes, this is similar to putting an oil finish (like tung oil) on wood...the
excess is always wiped off, and another coat added after the previous one
dries....otherwise, a skin forms over non-dry oil, and takes perhaps years
to dry.

-Guy-

> I think the most common problem I have found with people who have had
> drying difficulties with their floors is that they tend to apply the
> linseed oils to thickly and then build up multiple coats that take
> forever.  Best to apply them thinly and only enough to let the oil soak
> in.  If it accumulates on the surface, then drying will take forever.
> Light multiple applications work the best.
>
> Bill
>
> On Friday, October 18, 2002, at 10:36 PM, Jennifer Altenbach wrote:
>
> > Does anyone have any experience using the Tried and True brand of
> > linseed oil finishes that contain no mineral spirits?  We have used them
> > on wood and love the finish, but have no idea how they might perform on
> > earthen floors.
> > We would love to be able to use it (we read somewhere about the toxicity
> > of mineral spirits) but we're afraid it might never dry.
> >
> > http://www.triedandtruewoodfinish.com/default.htm
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Beeguild@aol.com [mailto:Beeguild@aol.com]
> > Sent: Friday, October 18, 2002 1:05 PM
> > To: strawbale@crest.org
> > Subject: Re: SB: floors, turpentine- do as I say, not as I did
> >
> >
> > Andy:
> >
> > I have used linseed oil many times on various furniture and floor
> > projects so
> > maybe I can add a few comments that would help you.
> >
> > You mentioned that you used "boiled raw" linseed oil.  Usually in the
> > hardware stores it is listed simply as "boiled" with the implication
> > that
> > they have added the usual amount of drying compounds to the oil to make
> > it
> > harden quicker.  "Raw" linseed oil is notorious for having a slow dry
> > time
> > and that is why it is almost never used as a finish with out the driers
> > added.
> >
> >
> > Anyway here is my experience with the standard "boiled" stuff on pine
> > floors.
> >  First I usually cut the linseed oil in 1/2 with either turpentine or
> > mineral
> > spirits.  I usually use turpentine because I like the smell and it comes
> > from
> > a tree.  I am not sure how mineral spirits are manufactured but I
> > suspect it
> > is from petroleum.  When doing a floor for the first time I usually put
> > on 3
> > coats, 1 per day.  I put on plastic gloves, take a rag and mop on the
> > mix
> > over a roughly 10'x10' area then I take a dry rag and go over the mopped
> >
> > floor to soak up any excess.  It seems to take about 3-7 days to dry.
> > Then I
> > usually remop the floor with the same process about once a year or
> > whenever
> > the finish looks dull.   The first time I did it I tried to wax the
> > floor
> > about 1 week later, which was a big mistake as the oil was still heavy
> > in the
> > wood and turned the wax into a real gummy mess.  Now I don't use wax at
> > all
> > and simply add another coat of oil if I think the floor is going bad.
> > Be
> > forwarned that it will darken  almost any wood and will continue to
> > darken
> > over time and use.  I like the look, but others may not.
> >
> > In regards to turpentine.  I don't think that is your culprit.  It is
> > still
> > widely used to make wiping varnishes for furniture too...a good formula
> > is
> > 1/3 varnish,1/3 turpentine,
> > 1/3 boiled linseed oil.
> >
> > Hope that helps.
> >
> > sam
> > droege
> > maryland
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >>
> >> Hmmm...had a very interesting conversation with a wooden boat builder
> > re:
> >> turpentine.
> >> Apparently, boat builders use turpentine as a solvent BECAUSE it never
> >> really allows the finish to harden.
> >>
> >> I was wondering why my floor hadn't hardened in several weeks, and
> > whether
> >> the turpentine I used because it was "natural" had anything to do with
> > it.
> >> He said that furniture makers rarely use turpentine as a solvent these
> > days,
> >> because what's available has too much rosin in it, and the finishes
> > come out
> >> gummy.
> >> So unless y'all want a gooey floor, use mineral spirits.
> >>
> >> Andy G.
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
> -------------------------------------------------------------------------
> > To unsubscribe from the list, send a message to:
> >    <strawbale-unsubscribe@crest.org>
> >
> > or for the digest to:
> >    <strawbale-digest-unsubscribe@crest.org>
> >
> > Please send any list administration questions to
> > strawbale-owner@crest.org
> >
>
>
> -------------------------------------------------------------------------
> To unsubscribe from the list, send a message to:
>    <strawbale-unsubscribe@crest.org>
>
> or for the digest to:
>    <strawbale-digest-unsubscribe@crest.org>
>
> Please send any list administration questions to
> strawbale-owner@crest.org
>


-------------------------------------------------------------------------
To unsubscribe from the list, send a message to:
   <strawbale-unsubscribe@crest.org>

or for the digest to:
   <strawbale-digest-unsubscribe@crest.org>

Please send any list administration questions to
strawbale-owner@crest.org